Caswells Top-Tips On Cello Research Upgrade Techniques
Buying your first upgrade cello is a major event and really should be a happy, inspiring experience. After all, you will be living and playing the instrument daily for years to come – so it must be right first time! You will, naturally, be committing quite a lot of money, but really you are buying into something that will become a part of you – which is why I always suggest the student gives their Cello a name.
So for those of you who are just starting on this journey, the correct instrument can make learning the Cello much easier and thus much more enjoyable.
This guide, then, is for students who are either upgrading from a rental Cello or moving up from a smaller Cello (3/4) to a full size. Typically, you will have obtained grade 3 or 4 with a good pass, Merit or Distinction.
Price Range
For purposes of this guide, I am presuming the price range from £2500 to £8000. In this bracket you can obtain a superb Cello which will be good for grade 8 and for amateur orchestras and beyond.
Firstly, some frequently asked questions and misconceptions
Should buy an old Cello if I can – that is my teachers advise?
In fact, contemporary Cellos sound better and are easier to play than an ‘old’ Cello. They are also far less subject to cracking and easier to maintain. A new Cello will also have far more potential to improve both tone and playability as the wood and varnish of a cello changes over time to enhance its resonant quality. This is a break-in period, and shops will generally offer a full free service after 12 months playing at which time the Cello has had time to ‘open up’. Caveat – if you happen to be offered an older instrument (100+ years old) with a good sound for under £5K, there must be a reason that it isn’t worth more, so make sure you find out what that reason is.
Should I buy the most expensive cello I can afford?
This is perfectly true, but within certain constraints, because there are many factors that enter into the price of a cello. Higher priced cellos will have better materials made up of aged spruce top, and maple for the back – usually from European forests (Tone woods), and also a better maker. Many workshop cellos could be made by one of the many apprentice Luthiers, whilst at the top end, the Cello made by a single experienced Luthier. The main criteria really and one that is absolutely critical, is to try as many Celli as you can in your price bracket – and the highest priced may simply be out-performed by a cheaper version. It is a very personal, subjective choice. For example, an expensive Cello may have a great sound but for some reason you find it difficult to play – whereas a slightly cheaper one feels more responsive and playable. It is a choice that has to be made, but once again remember the 12-month free service which is available to sort out any playing issues.
Chinese Cellos just can’t be as good as those made in Germany? (for example)
German cellos are, indeed, very good instruments and set at reasonable prices, but many superb Chinese cellos are now on the market, which are very acceptable. Many other countries manufacture Celli (e.g. Romania) but then again, many well-known brands have their own factories in China. The main thing, as said before, is to try as many as you can and certainly from a specialist shop that can answer all your questions – especially the ones you have already researched on the online. Any good shop will have their own internal Luthier and workshop which is available for any eventuality and guarantees.
Should I bring my teacher or professional friend/player?
This is a debatable point! If you are a confident player, the Cello buying experience should be invigorating and inspiring – leading to the exact instrument that you feel will serve you for many years. It is a highly subjective choice – and can be aided by an experienced shop employee. A dissenting view can often cause confusion. On the other hand, a teacher will be able to check over all the buying pitfalls – listed below and can comment on tone and projection etc – ultimately it is your gut feel and the instruments playability that counts.
Some points to note when buying a new Cello
So, you are in the Cello shop, and you have been ushered into the instrument room where eight or ten Cellos in your price bracket are arranged in stands around a central chair. The celli all look amazing and have been pre-tuned for you to get started. The shop assistant will give you the run-down on each Cello and then offer to stay with you and offer experienced advice – or if you prefer, he/she will discretely retire. For you to do your own thing!
Bring an easy piece too play, something that doesn’t require too much concentration – you are here to assess Cello after all – so bring something along that you are incredibly familiar with. You will also be given a good bow to use which must be used throughout – different bows cause different responses from an instrument and it will be easier to understand the cello if there are few differences between them.
Picking up the Cello one after another can be daunting, but here is a simple plan to help you analyse each instrument and the deciding factor – your final choice of your Cello soul mate!
- Firstly, open strings only, and close to the bridge – a few full bow strokes to feel the string tension, tone and ease of playing.
- Follow this with a C major scale in 3 octaves.
- Move on to the next Cello and follow through until you have tried all available instruments.
It is often amazing how you can quickly pick out your favourites.
- Follow on by opening your music with something well known and not too complicated.
- Play only a few lines, concentrating on how the strings respond and how balanced they are.
Whilst playing make sure to note the following:
- Is the Cello responding or is there a dullness, nasal sound or a buzz (which can be very frustrating).
Finally, having weeded out most of the Cellos and down to, say, two – play something that will test the volume and projection. Don’t be in a hurry, give yourself time and if you have someone with you who can play, get them to play a ‘blind’ test on both instruments (with you turning your back on the player.)
The final decision
It is up to you to make the final choice, but by all means question the assistant, here are a few questions to ask:
- What strings have been fitted and are they good quality? You may request that they upgrade from factory strings to one of the well-known brands (Jargar, Larsen, Prelude or Kaplan for example)
- Is the bridge correct – what type is it and has the set-up been done correctly
- Where was the Cello made and what are the guarantees etc.
Take your usual bow to the try out then you will be able to judge the different feel of the new cello rather than the different feel of an unfamiliar bow.. As well as your suggestions I would suggest trying out the higher ranges of the D string as well as the A string.. I do agree that the right cello for YOU may not be the most expensive one that you try.